Havana Cuba

 Ironic juxtaposition.  Just 100 miles off the Florida Keys, Cuba could hardly be any closer to the U.S. and not share a border. Yet in political, economic, and cultural terms the two countries might as well be on different

Bicycle rickshaw in Old Havana. Photo #251AF11 "rickgeo" Menu

planets. And for the would-be American visitor, for whom travel to Cuba is essentially prohibited, this island of hot Afro-cuban rhythms and cool rum "mojitos" is so close -- yet so far.

Once the most Americanized place outside of America, Cuba is now, under Castro, very anti-American -- officially at least. Castro and U.S. politicians trade barbs at every opportunity. And that's about all they trade given the American embargo on Cuba. Still, with the waining of Soviet support and the waxing of tourism, the U.S. dollar is now an accepted currency in Cuba. And American tourists are greeted with a smile and a "Cuba Libre".

My trip to Cuba was legal. The U.S. Government (specifically the Department of Treasury) may issue a special travel license to

Palm trunks frame the Gran Teatro. Photo #251AF04 "palmteatro" Menu

American citizens who visit Cuba for certain humanitarian, journalistic, or cultural-exchange purposes. In my case, I obtained a license to study Cuban music at the National School of Art in Havana, a course organized by Caribbean Music and Dance Programs [off-site]. Besides the great music, I enjoyed many other attractions in Havana and great photo opportunities abounded.

 His Story.  Castro's, that is. Cuba's modern history has been written by Fidel Castro. Since 1959 when he rode victorious into Havana, he has ruled over Cuba as either a benevolent father figure or heavy-handed dictator, depending on your point of view. What's not disputed, however, is that he is "El Jefe Máximo" -- the Big Boss -- in Cuba.

Castro was not Cuba's first revolutionary. This distinction normally goes to journalist, poet, and philosopher, Jose Marti. Marti inspired the fight to push the Spanish out of Cuba. As throughout most of the New World, the Spanish conquest

Jose Marti's immortal gaze over the Plaza de la Revolucion. Photo #251AC26 "martistatu" Menu

and colonization of the Cuban island was brutal, causing widespread suffering and death among the indigenous Indians and African slaves. Later, landowners in poorer eastern Cuba, fed up with Spanish control of Cuban politics and economics, freed their slaves and with them began to revolt. Their first attempt failed. But then under the leadership of Jose Marti, they succeeded in routing the Spanish from most of the island. Ironically, Marti was killed on the first day of fighting.

When the battleship USS Maine blew up in the Havana harbor, the United States found an excuse to enter the fray. With the Spanish already on the brink of defeat, the U.S. finished the job in three months. U.S. involvement was ostensibly altruistic, meant to secure Cuban independence. But many U.S. interests wanted a foothold in Cuba and, in fact, for the next 60 years the U.S. maintained some form of control over Cuba. First, under the Platt Amendment,

Rap the Cap! Apparently guided by a power even higher than Castro, workers repair the Capitolio, which was modelled after the U.S. Capitol building. Photo #251AF06 "rapthecap" Menu

the U.S. retained the right to intervene in Cuban affairs under certain broadly defined conditions. Later, Cuba was "governed" by U.S. backed leaders, many of them unelected, including Fulgencio Batista. During Batista's rule, Cuba was an American playground rife with casinos and nightclubs run by organized crime. It was Batista and his army that Castro defeated in 1959.

Castro brought Communism to Cuba and this, of course, is the root of contention with the U.S. While Cuba may have seen some of the worst that capitalism has to offer, it now sees some of the worst communism has to offer: restrictions on personal liberty and expression, economic stagnation, poverty, cronic shortages of food, fuel, and other basic necessities. To make ends meet, Cuba has often relied on foreign investments of one sort or another. Until recently, Cuba received massive subsidies from the Soviet Union. But with the demise of the

Castro rides victorious into Havana (painting in the Museum of the Revolution). Photo #251AG12 "castrovic" Menu

Soviet Union, Cuba now welcomes investments from other countries, including Canada and Western European countries, who see opportunities in tourism, oil, mining, and other endeavors. This is putting pressure on U.S. concerns who are prevented by the embargo from doing business in Cuba. Unless Castro can somehow maintain his balancing act on an increasingly wobbly tightrope, a big showdown between capitalism and communism appears imminent.

A canon at El Morro, rusted in its tracks, still watches over the Havana harbor entrance. Modern day Havana forms the skyline. Photo #251AF29 "morrocanon" Menu

 On Guard!  In the latter sixteenth century Havana served as a safe haven for Spanish flotillas returning to Spain with spoils plundered from the New World. These were dangerous times when pirate ships and predatory foreign navies roamed the high seas, looking for any opportunity to grab a piece of the Americas -- or a piece of gold. Standing at the entrance to the Havana harbor, the monolithic El Morro Fortress stood guard, protecting the harbor.

Built between 1589 and 1630, El Morro's massive walls and muscular canons watched over the Spanish fleets that twice a year stopped in Havana for repairs and supplies before making the trecherous Atlantic crossing.

El Morro fortress across the Havana harbor as seen from the smaller Castillo de La Punta. Photo #251AG05 "punta1" Menu

Further security was provided by a chain hung nightly between El Morro and the smaller La Punta fortress across the harbor entrance. Perhaps trying to imbue the fortress with still more protective powers, the Spanish were careful to give the fortress a name worthy of its size; its full name is Castillo de Los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro -- Castle of the Three Great Holy Kings on the Headland.

Today El Morro is, of course, a tourist attraction. From atop its ramparts one gains a wonderful vantage point from which to view the Havana skyline and the crashing waves below. For even wider vistas, one

The lighthouse at El Morro fortress reaches toward a crecent moon. Photo #251AF31 "morrofaro" Menu

can climb the stairs -- watch your head -- to the top of the lighthouse. The kind old watchman at the top will relate the history of the lighthouse which was built in 1845.

 African Abstraction  Near the heart of Havana beats another heart, Calle Hamel (Hamel Street). A block-long section of street in the Centro area, Calle Hamel is a living, public shrine to African

Vibrant colors on Calle Hamel. Photo #251AB18 "hamelanten" Menu

heritage in Cuba, a heritage of art, music, dance, and religion. Enormous abstract murals tower above the street. Enigmatic poetry-cum-grafitti covers the walls. Religious icons catch the eye. On Sundays this African heart beats especially hard when the congas pound out a rumba beat and there's dancing in the streets.

Calle Hamel owes its existence to one Salvador González Escalona who painted his first mural in 1990. He didn't stop until his brush had touched practically every square inch of vertical real estate on the block.

Eyes are a common icon in Calle Hamel murals ("te estoy cazando"). Photo #251AB13 "eyeshamel" Menu

His color preference was vibrant, his thematic inspiration mysterious. Having become a celebrated artist, Sr. González now travels abroad to paint murals.

All through Calle Hamel flows an undercurrent of religion, specifically the Afro-caribbean religions of Santería (of the Yoruba people), Palo Monte (originally from the Congo), and Abakuá (from Nigeria). Religious ideas imbue the murals, sculptures, poetry, and music of Calle Hamel. The potent ambience of Calle Hamel might leave some a bit uneasy. But don't worry. The herb shop at the end of the street surely has the indicated concoction to lift -- or if you prefer, ward off -- the spirits.

Oblivious to the spirits around them, kids play on Calle Hamel. Photo #251AB12 "hamelkids" Menu

Now that you've finished the Trip Report, take the
Cuba Quiz
to test your knowledge and reveal one more photo.